Tuesday Lovely, sunny day, as usual, without too many disturbances from jet-skiers and other small boats full of holidaymakers - or maybe I'm just getting used to them? A productive day - having found a vital pin yesterday that kept trying to come loose in the wind-steering mechanism, a priority was to fix it in place somehow, bearing in mind I'd be wanting to use the wind-steering a lot in the coming passage. Overnight, to make sure the pin wasn't lost, I taped it over with Gorilla tape - with a strong adhesive backing, it did its job well. I decided that a penny washer, together with a couple of other smaller washers, could be wired in place to stop the pin coming out. The hole in the penny washer was just too big but with the smaller washers reducing the hole, the result was fine. Using mousing wire, which is quite flexible, it didn't take too long to sort out - see photo. The rest of the day was spent sorting out the boat with a long passage in mind - I got out my clear Lexan washboard and put it in place and cleared and cleaned the cockpit, as well as down below. I had plenty of time to catch up with some overdue emails as well as downloading the usual batch of weather faxes (Pt Reyes comes through better than Honolulu) and grib files. The weather news this morning was of strong NW winds persisting over the day off the Baja coast - so not a time to get going since I want to head WNW, if possible. Tomorrow, the winds might still be fairly strong and from WNW, which could well cause me a problem, but they should be slowly easing over the next few days. The seas will, as usual, take a time to lie down giving a rough ride for a time. I might try leaving tomorrow and see what it's like once a few miles out of the Bay. It's very protected in here, so very deceptive. The swell has been causing a lot of surf on the nearby beaches - I hear the sound of waves crashing all the time when on deck. I'll try to get a good sleep tonight - might be my last for quite a time if it's as rough out there to begin with as I suspect it will be...

I'm convinced Mexico doesn't want me to leave!!

It's late on Wednesday and I'm headed to Cabo San Lucas from San Jose - not sailing offshore yet, as expected this morning.

As I was about to leave Cabo San Lucas today,with mainsail hoisted and about to raise the anchor, I went to turn off the galley seacock so as not to have the same problem as before, (when trying to leave well heeled over in big winds & suddenly realised seawater was sploshing everywhere down below...) Saw some diesel near the seacock and remembered there seemed to be a film of diesel on top of all that water - "Better check the bilge"... To my horror, the bilge was almost full of diesel - and a lot under the engine also....

What to do? Clearly not sensible to head offshore with the problem not resolved.

Decided to head back to San Jose del Cabo, where I'd met the Capt and crew of 'Pacific Provider' on Sunday. They had been very friendly and offered any help I might need - surely they could help me sort this problem out? As I motored back, I looked carefully at the engine with a bright torch, hoping to see the reason for all that fuel in the bilge - sure enough, fuel was clearly leaking out, quite fast, from the area around one of the two primary fuel filters. I tried switching over to the other filter, but that didn't seem to make any difference. As we motored to San Jose, keeping well out, I was busy trying to get some of the fuel out from the bilge... Neither of the two small 12v pumps I had on board seemed to be able to lift out any of the fuel... but a soup ladle worked fine, if very slow ... Good being chef and mechanic on board.

After throwing away two bucket-loads of diesel, (natural, organic, will do no lasting harm).... I decided to re-cycle the next few lots - it looked perfectly clean and usable - so it was put through the Baja filter and on into the main tank... A few more bucket-loads and the main tank was clearly full. By then we were about to enter San Jose, so I stopped and went up to concentrate on docking at the long fuel dock, close ahead of 'Pacific Provider', well away from the fuel pumps - didn't need those, for sure!

I immediately went to find Capt Thomas and Engineer Dave (it's a big boat!!) to see if they would help - they came straight away to the boat and quite soon had pin-pointed the problem - not, as initially thought, the dried out gasket on the primary filter housing, but the bleed point above one of the filters having a misplaced copper washer - which was not seated properly and so was letting fuel past it - fuel pressure there is very high... Once Thomas had re-seated the washer properly and tightened down the bleed screw, all was well. Even running the engine at high revs did not result in any leakage. I wondered just howl long the problem had been present. Clearly, during the five-day passage, mainly under motor, from Ixtapa, fuel had been getting below. No wonder our fuel consumption had been surprisingly high!

Of course, solving the leakage problem was great ... Clearing up the mess, not so! Took a very long time to remove all the diesel from the bilge and under the engine - David lent me a useful little manual pump to use and I used some big containers they had stored on the aft -deck - I had to go back several times to collect more and finally ended up having filled six five-gallon containers with fuel or an emulsion of fuel and seawater. "Un regalo para los pescadores" - I tried to give the good stuff away! And eventually managed it... By nine o'clock, I was finished and had enjoyed a lovely warm shower on board 'Pacific Provider' - followed by a celebratory drink with David, Paul and Ashley before I left the dock to motor to and anchor off Cabo San Lucas, ready for leaving tomorrow morning .... I hope!!

8pm LT / 0100 GMT On passage again....

Well, the hoped-for sea-breeze didn't appear today - I was hoping it would reinforce the light SSW wind found as I left Acapulco Bay today so that we'd have a pleasant sail W and then WNW.. but not so.

So we've been under the 'iron sail' since leaving early this afternoon, trying to be sure of making Zihuatanejo in daylight tomorrow.

There's a good 2m swell running from the SSW - but being spaced every 6-8 seconds, it's no problem, even though it's on our beam.

Dolphins appeared briefly earlier, jumping out of the water, leaping high into the air. Of course, having dived below to find my camera, they'd disappeared when I got back on deck.

I'm going to pause writing this now, to make a meal while there's still some daylight left - I'm hungry, not having eaten much today!

9:45 pm LT / 0245 GMT An onion omelette with fried diced potatoes went down very well!

There's a group of bright red lights onshore, near to the white lights of a village - seems very much like a big fire. Certainly unexpected and most odd, since this coast is very under-populated. Maybe they're burning off palm fronds to clear the ground? They grow a lot of bananas and coconuts here, so that's possible. Let's hope, if so, that it's under control...

I left later than intended, having spent quite a time on the Internet today but I should still arrive at Zihuatanejo during daylight tomorrow so long as I keep up a reasonable speed. Pity the wind is doggedly dead on the nose...!

A bright planet has been overhead for several days now (just above Sagittarius, I think) - Saturn or Jupiter? Looks too yellow to be Mars... and Venus would be white and lower. (Just been told it's Mars...)

Occasional bright splashes of light below the sea surface keep catching my eye - something moving down there, for sure.... Squid (likely)... fish (maybe)... dolphin (probably not - wrong size)...??

Hasta luego - time to check in to the Pacific Seafarers' Net...!

Hazy all morning, land not visible - sun peeking through - but only just. Wonder if things will wind up later to another heavy rainstorm, as happened overnight in Acapulco?

Spotted a fishing panga zipping by astern,mid-morning.

Closing on Zihuatanejo now - only 15 miles to the Bay entrance now (11.30am LT)

.......

First thing coming into view through the haze was the high dark mound of the Morro de Petatlan, followed later by the several high white rocky islets 1 1/2 mls off its seaward end - Las Rocas Potosi. The S. headland of Zihuatanejo Bay did not appear for quite a time, it was so hazy.... The Bahia de Petatlan is wide open to the prevailing SW swell, as well as any wind from NW to SE, whereas the Bay of Zihuatanejo is well-protected and has plenty of room for cruisers wanting to enjoy this deservedly-popular, friendly town.

I suddenly realised that the last time I was here was over nine years ago and yet the place seems so familiar. I twice stayed here at anchor for quite a time - enjoying their annual Guitar Fest both times and so helping to raise money for the local schools.

The sea-breeze seemed to be picking up - if only I could head twenty degrees more off the wind, we could be sailing - but that course would take us directly into shore... The story of this short passage.

My course should take me well clear of Roca Negra - an isolated large black rocky islet one mile off the S. headland of the Bay entrance - now, in daylight, very clear. According to the chart, marked with a lit beacon at night - amazing! .But that shows how well-used this Bay is. Think I'll handsteer around it - radar is showing it well off the charted position and closer to our planned path...

1840 GMT: There's a BIG bird sitting at the masthead - my apparent wind suddenly went to zero ... a frigate, no doubt... GO away!!

It didn't - curses!! No wind info - and it could well have damaged the transducer/anemometer.

.............

2000 GMT/3pm LT Went for a slow tour around the bay and finally anchored in 7.4 m depth after dropping the mains'l. Not much wind - don't know exactly how much...! Time to relax and celebrate a little... An 'officially' completed circumnavigation - started from here in March 2007, finished June 2016...!! I'll move over to Xtapa at some point for fuel and check the weather before moving on north after clearing out from Mexico with the Port Captain here.

Saturday 4th June

After anchoring in the Bay early Friday afternoon, I relaxed and had a lovely swim before moving over, just before sunset, to Ixtapa marina from where I hoped to clear out of Mexico Saturday morning... No such luck... After a 25 min/10 pesos bus ride into Zihuatanejo town, found the Capitania was closed for International checkouts until Monday... I was almost tempted just to sail away... but will make use of the time to sort out a few things on board. A big bird landed on the masthead as we got close, after which the wind instrument was showing 0.0 knots, even though the cups were turning on the anemometer... Grrr! Means a trip up the mast to see if the problem can be fixed. Had a big rainstorm again early this morning, so will make sure I avoid any such weather if I do decide to climb up...

Took a photo of the dinghy beach by the town jetty... No dinghies (I seem to be the only active cruiser here - out of season) but the local fishing boats (pangas) are seen in the distance... Fishermen near their boats on the beach in the morning hope to sell their varied catch...

Went on to spend a relaxing day in Zihuatanejo ... Took some more photos but the battery was flat :-( . Had a good, late, chilequiles breakfast after wandering around a bit and getting some cash. Spent late afternoon on shady beachfront overlooking Bay with slow, cool cerveza, watching kiddies playing in the waves and then fishermen preparing their pangas for that evening's fishing.

Later, found same guy near busy Plaza making same great hamburguesas (just 40 pesos) as used to in 2005 & 2007! (Remember... Steph, Warren & Goh?) On to Barracuda's to chat as I munched ... and watched ice hockey game in Canadian company... Finally caught last bus back to Ixtapa ... at 8:30 p.m....! Put up mosquito netting - this place used to be a swamp... (and used to have frequent crocodiles lurking in the water....)

Sunday ..... catching up with boat stuff (and Internet while it's available - in cool, air-conditioned marina office with friendly, helpful staff). No trip up mast needed ... Wind instrument seems to have recovered ...wind info is being displayed again. Great! Weather not looking threatening but neither is it looking particularly helpful for heading off tomorrow after bus trip in to Capitania and then refuelling as I leave... C'est la vie... Que sera, sera... Would be really nice to have good sailing weather...

See RNLI magazine item: http://magazine.rnli.org/Article/How-to-start-your-sailing-adventure-105

On Tuesday, the afternoon breeze hardly kicked in at all, so although I poled out the genoa and goose-winged the main, we barely made 3.5 kt. Lovely though it was to be without the engine noise, I was forced to start the motor soon after dark.

I kept well offshore overnight, as we approached Acapulco, passing the beach where Nereida I is totally buried, deep under the wet sand of a surf beach near the village of Tenexpa..

I had kept our speed down to make sure we arrived in daylight.... It turned out that I couldn't have chosen a better day to pull into Acapulco!

I found the Acapulco Y.C. fuel dock, after a bit of searching around, and was told I needed to go to the office with my ship's papers before fuelling.

I knew Senor Marquez, the Y.C. Dockmaster, from my visit in 2008 and, sure enough, he came into the office to check my papers. He had been the kind soul who had said to stay with his family in 2008 when I lost my boat the very next day after leaving to head north to complete a circumnavigation....

It was lovely to catch up with him - but he said the port captain's office was closed because it was a fiesta - Dia de Marinero. - which explained the Navy boat coming out that morning, dressed overall with flags, and the accompanying smaller boats I'd seen as I was entering Boca Grande - the main bay of Acapulco.

Jose suggested I stay overnight at the nearby Maina Acapulco (half the cost of the Y.C.!) and invited me to the Y.C. fiesta at 4pm when I'd meet his family. That went really well, with a live band to dance to in between chatting to the family.and being plied with food and drink. (They all came to visit "Nereida" later)

Discussing my plans, Jose said it would be better to clear out from Mexico in Zihuatanejo rather than from Acapulco whose officials might possibly cause me complications - he could give me a 'despacho' from Acapulco to Zihuatanejo to simplify matters - so off to his office he went, returning half an hour later with my paper - very kind of him.

So plans have changed. Tomorrow, instead of heading to the Port Captain's office first thing, I'll be heading for Zihuatanejo (a day's sail away) that I was intending to go to anyway, to clear out of Mexico from there for Canada.. Why was I planning on heading to there from Acapulco? To complete my 'unfinished' circumnavigation which I'd started in March 2007 and so nearly finished in June 2008....

I'd forgotten the blue-and-white old Volkswagen Beetles which are commonly the taxis here in Acapulco. ...And the steep-sided roads, with hair-pin bends and stone facings - much of the bay is very steep-to.

I'll wander over towards the marina office soon, not just to send this off (my ship's radio connection via Pactor modem normally does that fine) but to get an Internet connection - possibly my last for several weeks - and post some photos on Facebook from today's fiesta event with the Marquez family at the Acapulco Y.C.

Tomorrow, I'll leave for Zihuatanejo - probably motoring into a light breeze - the forecast is not looking helpful for the next few days.... light winds, possibly northerlies... Que sera,sera...!

Tuesday 0600GMT - Passing S of the busy port of Lazaro Cardenas... Having to stand watch overnight for most of the time.

'Bicente' was ahead and clearly changed course slightly to avoid getting too close - passed by our port side a good two miles off - the beauty of AIS - I can 'see' them, they can 'see' me!

Next ship, coming from astern, is 'Kukulcan' - their course is showing them passing rather close - about one mile off. We'll both keep a careful watch to make sure that happens but first they need to avoid 'Bicente'- Looks as though they'll pass each other 'port-to-port', with room to spare.

Frequent short exchanges between ships around have been heard on the VHF but when I called 'Bicente' earlier, to confirm our plan of action to avoid collision, my plotter was affected and I had to reset my instruments - the plotter was telling me I'd completed my track, so the AP had no data to work with...! Annoying but quickly resolved, although I wasn't keen, after that, to contact either ship by VHF.

So long as I hold my course, they can alter course slightly if they need to and all is well. Oncoming vessels usually pass port to port and an overtaking vessel must keep clear - lessons we've all learned! Bottom line is to avoid collision at all costs - so stand by to jump to the wheel!!

0630 GMT - the two ships are just passing each other astern of us, 8 miles off. 'Kukulcan' should overtake us in just over an hour's time... I'll have to wait to make sure all is well... Local time is 1.30 a.m. Sleep will be made up over tomorrow in snatches...

0700 GMT - I tried to contact 'Kukulcan' who are still showing as though they'll pass very close - too close for comfort - but .... a language problem... I THINK they indicated that they'll pass us on their starboard side... but I'm not sure... They weren't clear... All I heard was the word 'starboard'. Maybe they'll pass to starboard of us? The main point is that they know we exist - that's got to be good news since they'll hopefully avoid us! (I'm standing by the wheel, just in case....!)

0730 GMT- They look to be heading as though to pass our starboard side...

1430 GMT / 9.30am LT Wow, but it's busy and has been all last night...! I'm seeing nine ships within 50 mls of us, with a lot more in the port of Lazaro Cardenas. Must be all the shipping heading between Panama and all points N of here coming together along this coast now.

We're presently 20 n.ml. S of Zihuatanejo, with Acapulco 106 n.ml. off - should be docking there this time tomorrow for fuel.

3.45pm / 2045 GMT Hope UK & US friends are enjoying their holiday!

Beautiful gentle sailing with main on preventer and genoa poled out goose-winged with afternoon onshore breeze enhancing what little wind there would be otherwise - so nice to lose the noise of the motor! Took time organising lines for the pole - having not used it for quite some time, uphaul and downhaul were only present on port side so switched them over to starboard. Was easiest to pole out the genoa but I really should get out the asymmetric at some point - been a long time since I used that!

Apparent wind is from W, around 10 kt but we're making around 5 kt ESE so true wind is likely to be about 14kt.

Acapulco is 188ml off still - looks like ETA of Wed around dawn if present speed kept up - daylight arrival always best.

Made a lot of radio contacts on 7163 around 4:30am - spoke to Guam, Kiritimati, Hawaii and Papeete, as well as many on or near US East coast. Later, spoke on 40m to West coast, Arizona and Mexico, with Australian stations also coming in well - one from Norfolk Island. Timing very dependent on time of local sunrise for good propagation and 40m band seems to be very noisy at present, so not always easy to make contact - but fun to try! Many radio friends I've never met face-to-face but have chatted with for a few years now.

I'll wait for wind to die down towards evening before starting the motor again. I'm enjoying the pleasant sail with only slight swell now... it's so relaxing! Time for food...

Lazaro Cardenas 45 n.ml. ENE, Zihuatanejo 80 n.ml. E

10am LT / 1500GMT Sky totally overcast. Passing due W of Tenacatita, about 16 miles off - keeping well offshore to avoid possible long-liners and any other fishing boats.

Still seeing lots of shipping further out - they're usually well out of my way, but AIS alarm just went off- one ship was headed directly for us! BSL 'Limassol' - just left Manzanillo, headed to USA - pleasant guy on VHF 16. Switched channel - He suggested I maintain my course and speed and we'll pass port to port - no problem. Both sent each other good wishes for a safe passage.... Typical mariner radio exchange!! Watching them pass by, I noticed a small turtle in the water, head held up, shell glistening.

Swell has died down a lot - I've some clearing up from rough seas yesterday which threw us about a lot and a galley locker door has come adrift - damaged hinge needs two screws replacing with thicker ones. Having to motor now in light wind after lovely overnight sail in good wind - always nice and peaceful without the engine running.

A small dove has been taking a ride since around dawn - perched in the bow, resting.

Made lots of radio contacts earlier, including a few familiar ones in S. Africa and Australia - always fun to chat to radio friends. Will continue daily contacts as I sail on.

4pm LT / 1900 GMT - teatime! Enough of an onshore breeze kicked in a bit earlier to unfurl genoa and later the staysail helped our speed by another half knot - every little bit helps....! Motor-sailing at 5 - 5.7 kt. in light WSW wind - suspect tide is helping SOG. Disturbed the bird who flew off - hopefully well rested!

Taking frequent short naps to keep up with sleep - helpful being 15-20 miles offshore and having AIS.

8:30pm LT / 0130 GMT 20 miles due S of Manzanillo and the light is fading rapidly. The sun, a big red globe, sank into the grey cloud layer on the horizon a short while ago.

A sure sign of no wind is when the needle spins around, not knowing where to settle. The flapping headsails had been furled in and, shortly afterwards, I noticed that 'our' bird, a collared dove, had returned to its perch on the pulpit., clearly intending to stay the night.

Just before it got too dark, I went forward to the mast to check some lines - and saw we had more company - a group of small dolphins came by and played around the bow - "Goodnight!"

A beautiful day... Almost no wind, so raised mainsail before leaving dock, to make sure no problems. Checked around on deck and noticed shackle needed on pole uphaul - so sorted that out also. Internet was down, so no chance to check on emails but will use Winlink via my HF radio while I'm under way.

F2 headwind from SW so motored to Cabo Corrientes. Hoping, once around, to be able to sail, so fixed vane of Hydrovane in position in readiness, with rudder already in place.

Big patch of deep red water about 10 ml NE of C. Corrientes - 'red tide'?

Almost no cloud - lovely to have awning in place over cockpit, for shade from bright, hot sun!

11.30pm Checked in with Pacific Seafarers' Net on 14300 at 0315 GMT/10:15 p.m. LT - good to make contact with several familiar voices!

We're sailing almost dead downwind at present, goose-winged, having turned off the motor some hours ago - we'd been motor-sailing up to then in light wind but wind is up nicely now.

Very rolly - good test of how well (or not) things are stowed! Leecloth on port bunk is useful for storing anything loose.

Beautiful starry night - no cloud - Southern Cross in clear view high over horizon to starboard... Sea sparkling with phosphorescence - lovely to see!

Keeping well offshore (~12 mls) to avoid, hopefully, illegal long-line fishing boats - I've been told they're normally 3 mls or so off the coast. Further offshore, 15-30 mls away, it's busy with shipping - so my present position seems about the safest.

0440 GMT position: 19 51N, 105 39W SOG: 6kt, COG: 148T wind: NW 15+ kt

Thinking a wallet was missing, delayed my start today... Also an interview with BBC Somerset for Steve Pointon's sail around the UK for Action for Children .. That went well .... Not long to his start on 20th June...  Good luck, Steve!    Got to fuel dock far later in day than intended... Wind got up but suddenly switched off.... Great, I thought, time to go.... Not so great once out of lee of land near marina.... F 4-5 headwinds and swell.... Not good!  Also, main halyard I'd got ready for sailing, was wrapped around backstay top insulator... Grrr!  Decided best to return to marina rather than go anchor off Pta de Mita in hope swell not too bad for a mast climb......  Back in marina... Lovely nap and then to 'La Peska' for last Mexican meal...  Lovely seafood molcajete and (free!) margaritas.  Plan to leave again early tomorrow (Sat) morning, when no wind, for rounding Cabo Corrientes on way S to Acapulco...


--

Monday 23 May 2016

After a lengthy two-day journey, involving an overnight stop in Atlanta, Georgia, USA, I got back to Nereida this afternoon.  It's nice to be back after a busy time in Lymington with not much sleep over several days, so much work was needed in preparing to leave.

My Virgin Atlantic first leg from LHR was made very enjoyable when the friendly crew upgraded me  - lovely to stretch out and get a much-needed sleep in between good food and drink!  I was also pleasantly surprised not to be charged excess baggage fees on either of the two legs - the rigging parts I had with me were very heavy, so much so that I took a taxi to and from the airports today after a big struggle with my suitcases yesterday between the airport and my Atlanta hotel.  Had to have Southern fried chicken in Max Lager's Brewery restaurant close by the hotel - Georgia is a Southern state, after all!

As is usual when coming through Customs into Mexico, I had to push a button when passing through Puerto Vallarta airport for a random possible inspection of my luggage - I breathed a sigh of quiet relief when I got a green light, not a red one...

Now I have to prepare the boat to move on - will probably take a few days but I'd like to sail away as soon as possible, now that the hurricane season is almost upon us.

 

To San Blas from La Cruz de Huanacaxtle - 13-18th February, 2016

 

synereida

February 16th, 19:33

To San Blas from La Cruz de Huanacaxtle - 13-18th February, 2016

 

synereida

February 16th, 19:33

To San Blas from La Cruz de Huanacaxtle - 13-18th February, 2016

 

synereida

February 16th, 19:33

A lovely, nicely-repaired rudder, freshly Coppercoated, and with clean prop and shaft newly coated with Propspeed .....  we were 'splashed' soon after sunrise on Sat 26th November.  (I'd been busily sanding the new Coppercoat the previous evening by headlight and again in the half-light around dawn)

That date was the last possible date for launching before next March, or maybe even April, in view of the tides becoming smaller over the winter here in the Sea of Cortez - so being ready in time was critical!

I enjoyed being afloat alongside the dock where the dive boat 'Ocean Sport' was moored. close to the table where freshly-caught fish were weighed, cleaned and dealt with - I received a chunk of marlin one day from one of the generous Mexicans which gave me an excuse to cook some ratatouille later to go with it - lovely!

Cruisers dinghying out to their boats in the Bahia, as well as pangas and tourist boats, regularly passed by and waved - all very sociable!



Nice to be afloat again with an intact rudder!   And the bimini support had finally been installed while on the hard - incredible... only one year later than I'd hoped!

After a trip to Europe over the 'holiday' season, I'll be driven back to 'Nereida' from Phoenix by Joseph DiMatteo of Tucson S.C., ready to instal two new 150W solar panels we'll be taking down with us.  Joseph has been amazingly helpful in talking to Solar World who are generously replacing all four panels under warranty - the old ones had degraded in places and were no longer producing the power they should have been.  I'll be looking forward to seeing a big increase in the amps produced by the new PV panels to charge the battery bank.   Many thanks to Solar World and to Joseph.

Merry Christmas and a Happy, Healthy, Peaceful New Year 2016 to you all!

 

On my return to Nereida early in October, it was nice to reconnect with familiar people around the marina, which suddenly became far busier with cruisers increasingly returning to launch boats safely stored in San Carlos over the heat of the summer and hurricane season, to ready them for sailing in the far pleasanter, cooler, winter weather.   Days suddenly became pleasantly warm and nights cool.

It was enjoyable also to meet Tucson S.C. members down for their annual ‘Fall Regatta’.  I knew several from last year, met new ones and helped crew on ‘Last Dance’ on the first day of racing.  The nearby large Bahia San Francisco is a perfect venue for such a Regatta, with its several islands forming excellent course marks.  I’d also enjoyed crewing the previous weekend on a friend’s Viper in several Arizona Y.C. races on Lake Pleasant, a large reservoir just outside Phoenix.  (We made a 1-3-1 despite my dubious help!)

I’d been looking forward to seeing more of the Sea of Cortez but first wanted to finish a few more boat projects – among them fixing a hatch mosquito screen in the forepeak, which I needed help with since it needed two pairs of hands, and getting a bimini (cockpit sun shade) support organized.  That last item has been frustratingly difficult to make progress on for several months, with the work continually not being started as promised….   This is Mexico!

I finally got away from the dock at San Carlos around one o’clock on Wed 28^th October after a prolonged Internet session at nearby Tequila’s (there’d be no Internet possibility once away) and having spent quite a time securing 3 newly-filled propane tanks in the gas locker, organizing  the dinghy and stowing my fold-up bike.

As expected, the wind was on the nose the entire way, so we motored north solidly, arriving  at Ensenada Chica just in time to anchor and relax before sunset…  Except that I couldn’t turn off the engine – the newly-installed replacement (keyed) start panel refused to respond when switched off…  The motor kept running….  (I realized a day later that I should have pressed the ‘Stop’ button before switching off , not after… obvious when you think about it!)

I had to get into the engine compartment to operate the emergency solenoid fuel cut-off.  Fortunately, I knew where to find it but was worried that the engine was hot and I had to reach down the far side of it….    It was a big relief when it stopped and I was able to relax and enjoy the dramatic view of pink, high, well-eroded-sandstone rocks and hills – so typical of the Sea of Cortez coastline and made even more spectacular as the sun began to set.

                            

Where I’d anchored is reasonably well-protected from north winds – sudden, strong Northers being the main worry over the winter months.   With good, accurate, weather information difficult to come by in this area, it’s best to be safe and head for such protected anchorages, despite the frequent flat calm encountered on the way.

After cooking a meal, I planned my forthcoming passages over to Puerto Refugio and Este Ton, both on Isla Ángel de la Guarda, off the Baja coast, using two pilot books giving anchorages in the area – and also my iPad which I’d loaded, using Tequila’s Internet access, with detailed Google Earth photos of the coast and islands to back up other information.

From weather info given the next morning (Thursday) on several HF radio Nets and also from grib files I’d downloaded, it was clear a Norther ‘blow’ was expected – on Friday, they all said…  So I decided to head to a “textbook” secure anchorage a short distance further north, to wait for the Norther to pass.

Ensenada Julio Villa was certainly very calm, with none of the fair-sized SW swell which had built up entering it, but the cove was a lot smaller than I expected and also rather shallow.  Tidal info is not available for a lot of the Sea of Cortez so I ‘guesstimated’ the time and height of Low Water that evening by reference to a place on the other side of the Sea at a similar latitude.  .   
 
Rocky outcrops to East and West of entrance....    with sandy beach on North side of cove: 

Anchoring in 12 feet (3.7 (m) of water, well away from the entrance rocks, did not feel too good but it was around mid-tide as I checked the depth on display using a lead line – it was over-reading just 8 inches (0.2m) – not normally a problem…  I  snorkelled to check on the seabed below the keel and found sand with lots of small boulders.   But later, when 9ft was shown and not knowing exactly how soon LW was expected, I moved closer to the entrance while there was still good daylight, re-anchoring in deeper water but still protected from the waves outside… But we were now a little closer to the rocks on either side of the entrance and I could not deploy as much chain as I would have liked since it would place us too close to the rocks astern.   When the expected strong NW wind came, the extended chain would place us even closer to them.   I thought about deploying a second anchor but that doesn’t leave much freedom for a quick escape if needed.… and there wasn’t anywhere else close by to make for that would give protection from the NW.

I was, by now, feeling decidedly uncomfortable and very aware that the barometer had been steadily falling and was now very low - at 1002 hPa – but the forecast was for the Norther to arrive the next afternoon…  

As soon as pitch darkness had fallen, before moonrise, the wind quickly began to build and I heard occasional sounds from the bow so I went there thinking maybe I should organize a snubber (closing hatches on the way as I did so!) – but soon realized that the anchor was beginning to drag – and almost immediately felt and heard it dragging a lot…  The high rocky hill astern loomed closer in the darkness.  I dived back to the wheel and turned on the engine – but we were already on the rocks with the wind, now 28-30 knots, trying to push us further on.   I could see one rock glistening black at the water surface close by to port and the rudder would only move a small amount either way, so clearly there were rocks to either side of it or it was already stuck in a crevice - but the water depth (near the bow) was reading 9ft.

Desperately trying to save the boat, I powered the motor to maximum revs, hoping to prevent us from being driven further onto the rocks by the wind.  Nothing happened and I was thinking,  “If I have to keep on like this for some time (until after the tide turned, in several hours’ time, maybe), so be it – anything to prevent us getting damaged by from going further onto the rocks.  There’s no-one around to help…”    I could hear occasional crunching under the keel from the rocks there but my impression was that the hull was, so far, clear of danger.

I kept on powering forward, moving the rudder very slightly at times in an effort to free the boat by getting it to change its position…the boat occasionally rocked slightly which I felt boded well – “If the boat would only move a bit more,” I thought, “We might stand a chance of getting away… “

After an age not making any progress, I suddenly felt a small forward movement – and then we bumped away and off the rocks….   What relief!  

Steering us in the direction of the cove entrance proved surprisingly difficult (clearly not helped by chain and anchor being still deployed) and as we seemed to veer out of control and head to the beach, I was fearful we’d end up in more trouble, but she finally responded to my steering efforts and we made it out of the cove and into open water – where the seas had already built substantially – definitely a ‘washing machine’ action…!

The anchor and chain needed to be taken in urgently.  I reduced the revs a little to make it easier and kept us making headway towards deeper water, away from the headland where the cove lay, although only making about 2kt into the 30kt headwind.   Switching to autopilot, I went forward to a bow that was crashing into the rough seas.   The moon had still not risen yet but the navlights I’d hurriedly gone below to switch on showed just how rough and big the seas were – tossing us around like the proverbial cork, with resulting chaos down below.
Thankfully, the windlass gave no problem and I was able to work with the wave action, getting the chain in gradually, in fits and starts, as we plunged into the oncoming waves, having regularly to move piled-up chain clear of the windlass gipsy inside the chain locker  … The anchor came in finally also, although I noticed it was upside down as it came up…   Far too dangerous in those seas to do anything about that – I was just thankful it was in and all seemed secure so I could get back to the wheel - and grab some extra (dry!) clothing to put on…

As we headed south towards San Carlos (a safe haven, for sure), our slow change of direction, as we followed the coast well offshore, gradually brought the oncoming seas abaft our beam – lessening slightly the violent motion.  Eventually we were running downwind – although still being tossed round in rather confused, angry seas.

I was thoroughly relieved that, when headed north, I’d circled a big, high rock (El Acero – the Sword), partly to look for a colony of sea-lions said to inhabit it and partly because it was well over a mile off the coast, rather than just the ½ mile shown on the chart. If I hadn’t marked its position on my plotter, I could possibly have run into it in the darkness but I was now able to steer well clear of it.

Reaching San Carlos, nearly thirty miles away, took until gone 2a.m. with nowhere else to take refuge.  Entering the Bahia, the seas calmed and the wind died – despite 20 knots of wind and rough seas just outside.  The high twin peaks of Tetakawi – the distinctive symbol of San Carlos – and the other high hills around give the harbour wonderful protection from the north.

On trying to drop the anchor in the tranquil bay to get a much-needed rest, I discovered it was firmly wedged and refused to move, despite prolonged hammering in an effort to free it….  

I was not inclined to struggle in the dark with readying my secondary anchor at that point – far simpler to get fenders and lines ready and cautiously make my way through the badly lit channel, past mostly unlit boats, piles and docks to the marina Fuel Dock – empty…  Great! 

Stepping off onto the dock to tie up carefully alongside was the prelude to a good sleep onboard – I knew Pedro would recognize my boat and kindly move it along carefully if needed, in order to let another one fuel up – as happened early in the morning…   I turned over and slept on….  I was safe and so also, it seemed, was Nereida…

Postscript:  The rudder had been damaged – the bottom was broken off (which possibly was the reason for my steering problem immediately after getting free if it was still partly attached for a time) - but the greater part of it was still there.  Being a sturdily-made semi skeg-hung rudder meant I came off the rocks with a rudder to steer with, rather than the entire rudder being torn away and/or bent, as some might well have been.   The propeller (a Brunton’s Autoprop) was fine and had, as usual, performed well and the hull was totally undamaged, as I’d thought.  Some small sections on the base of the lead keel were slightly dented – but nothing major.   “Nereida” is now on the hard in San Carlos - the Mexicans excel at this kind of repair but I'm having to bring down foam from the USA for the core.

 

Friday 14th August 2015 - Santa Rosalia

It's been lovely to be away from the dock on 'Nereida', often at anchor, often in deserted coves with brilliant sunsets to enjoy!  The Sea of Cortez has some spectacular scenery and plenty of places to anchor in....

With only rare access to Internet and a problem at present with emailing log reports to my website, I've been emailing my regular logs to:  http://synereida.livejournal.com/

Some photos have also been just posted to my Facebook 'sailing' page:  https://www.facebook.com/SVNereida     Click Sea of Cortez to see that album - updated whenever I have Internet access.

I've really been enjoying snorkelling among the rocks close to my last few anchorages - so many lovely fish to enjoy - it's been a long time since I last did that...  THe big Cortez Damsel is one of many beautiful fish I've enjoyed seeing - from tiny vivid blue ones to large groupers etc.

On now further north, maybe to Trinidad (!) for tonight.... before heading slowly on towards Bahia de los Angeles ... I'm definitely in 'ambling' mode, just now.   Wherever I will be, I'll be posting my daily positions on www.winlink.org under the callsign kc2iov - accessed easily from my website 'Travels' page link ("Where is Nereida?"), ...or by clicking HERE, if preferred.

 

 

 

Sunday 2nd August 2015 - about to leave San Carlos to explore Sea of Cortez

Wednesday 3rd June 2015: Landfall in San Carlos, Sea of Cortez, Mexico

{Monday 8th June - all looking fine, despite a very overcast, breezy day - TS Blanca has reduced to a Low and winds and rain here in San Carlos are not much, although over on the Baja peninsula conditions have been a bit stronger - but nothing too bad, TG!}

synereida

June 7th, 8:00

The friendly little swallows on the boat opposite me in Isla Mazatlan had fledged their nestlings . The closed stern barbecue conveniently had a hole at one end that was just the right size for them.. It seemed the right time to leave Mazatlan to head north again - the prospect of sailing overnight in the bright light of a full moon was appealing...

The hurricane season has started up with a vengeance - Andres obligingly turned out to sea, as expected, but was very early and increased to well over a hundred miles per hour... To my surprise, Blanca was hot on his heels and looking quite threatening, as I made my way up to the Sea of Cortez, in a good southerly swell. I'd spent a pleasant couple of evenings before leaving, firstly with cruiser friends and then with Osvaldo (skipper of 'Romance') and his family..

I was sorry Eduardo (skipper of 'Mi Casa') hadn't taken up my offer of a farewell 'cerveza' on my last afternoon. Both he and Osvaldo had been very keen to help me in whatever way they could, but Eduardo clearly didn't realise just how early I wanted to leave ..... By 7am, I was well underway, avoiding the dredger in the shallow entrance channel and hoping not to run into difficulties with the big swell over the entrance bar. The waves were crashing heavily into the nearby shore, coming from the S as a result of the hurricanes not so far away. Eduardo had appointed himself my Press Agent and I'd had two newspaper interviews and one TV interview by the time I had left - a severe test of the minimal Spanish I've been working hard at trying to improve.. Fortunately, Eduardo was close at hand with his good English, to translate when needed. My time in Mazatlan was made very enjoyable by the many friendly people I met up with (a wedding party included!) and I hope to return there soon.

My passage N was, as expected, full of motoring in increasingly calm seas with a diminishing S swell and occasional light breezes from just about every direction as the heat of the day caused an onshore sea breeze and; later; offshore land breezes. The mainsail had been raised from the start but I was only able to enjoy the peace of sailing a few times in all, with quite a nice downwind run under poled-out genoa, goosewinged for a few hours.
.
Dolphins came by several times and. in the heat of the midday sun, I enjoyed a brief dip in the sea and a delicious deck shower within sight of San Carlos entrance and its familiar, distinctive, twin peaks . Other boats were only seen on arrival - surprisingly, I'd had the sea, sun and stars to myself for three days!

Now in harbour, I'm trying to find the cause of a major problem I had on passage - the toilet kept back-filling with sea water ... I had to turn off the outlet seacock to prevent the boat from flooding... Quite a worry, but a relief to see the water level in the bowl stay low in the end... I'm still trying to figure out what's going on. The other smaller problem was finding the motor stopping unexpectedly when I reduced power quickly (I was very gentle coming in to dock!). Luckily, there are two good mechanics here in San Carlos, so that problem should be easy to fix.. The other nice thing is the friends and acquaintances that are here - it has felt like a bit of a 'homecoming' having been here for most of last year when I met so many people - but I hope not to be on the hard again this time.

Blanca is still a worry and several boats have crossed over from the Baja peninsula to escape the very strong winds and heavy rain expected - far more so over there, to the West, than is forecast for here (Historically, San Carlos has been a good 'hurricane hole'). With any luck, Cabo San Lucas and the Baja won't be hit too hard. We were expecting some strong weather here also but the last I heard, Blanca will move out into the Pacific soon and not cause so much trouble on land as had been feared. ... Fingers crossed!  (Well, she actually came onshore at Cabo San Lucas and La Paz and on North, but diminished as she came - see above)